A vehicle rounding a curve on a paved road through green hills

Getting to La Fortuna from SJO

It’s 125 kilometers. Give it three hours. That gap is the first thing to understand about this country, where distance and time rarely match: La Fortuna sits northwest of Juan Santamaría International Airport, and the road takes roughly three to three and a half hours depending on traffic leaving the Central Valley. The drive is half the fun — coffee farms give way to rolling green hills, and then the volcano rises ahead of you like a postcard.

Ask what goes wrong on Costa Rica trips and the answer isn’t the guides and isn’t the rain. It’s the driving, every time, and it’s always a number nobody handed over in advance. So we hand it over first: every drive on your route, in writing, before you pay. On this one there are only two worth the name — and one of them isn’t a drive at all.

Four ways in from the airport

The interior of a shuttle van, with the road blurring past the window

Which one we’d put you in

A shared shuttle charges per seat; a private van charges for the van. So the fewer of you there are, the more sense the shuttle makes — and on this run, from about four travelers up, the private van stops costing more at all. Below four there is a real trade and it isn’t only money: the shuttle has a fixed departure window, other pickups and a rest stop, while the van leaves when you’ve cleared customs and goes door to door.

Breakfast at the foot of a volcano, lunch inside a cloud, and in between you watch the country change from the middle of a lake. It’s the only leg of this trip that ends up in the photo album.

Weather is the one thing nobody here controls, so we wrote down in advance what happens when it wins. There’s a land route, you still sleep in the cloud forest that night, and you are not the one making phone calls about it. That’s if you let us drive. You don’t have to.


Renting gives you total freedom, and the roads to La Fortuna are mostly well paved. The one caution specific to this leg: don’t plan to land and drive into the mountains in the dark on day one. There is also a short domestic flight that turns the three hours into half an hour — we don’t operate it, but if it appeals, tell us early and we’ll look into it with you.

Both kinds are included, and which one you want depends on how many of you there are. A shuttle sells seats; a van sells the whole vehicle. So the bigger your group, the sooner the private one stops costing more — and it tips at a different number on every leg, which is why nobody should sell you one rule for the whole trip. The airport guide does that arithmetic in full.

For scale: bought on their own, the four transfers that carry you in from the airport, across the lake, down to the coast and back start at about $238 a person. On our trips they’re not a line you settle separately — they’re inside the price, along with your stay, your guides and every activity. There are three things we can’t do for you, though, and you should hear them now rather than later.

Here’s the cure, and it’s a small one. You land, someone is standing there holding a sign with your name on it, and the next decision you have to make is whether you want to stop for coffee. The day you were quietly dreading turns into the first afternoon of the trip. That’s why the transfer is built into our trips rather than tacked on at the end.

There is a small domestic flight that turns that three-hour drive into half an hour. It isn’t ours to sell, so if you want it, raise it early and we’ll go and find out for you.

And if your flight home leaves before early afternoon, the run back to the airport starts in the dark. We’ll say so while you can still change the flight, which is the only time that information is worth anything. Everything else is already written down. Here is where.

The five we get every week

The rest of the getting-around question

A passenger boat crossing Lake Arenal with the Arenal volcano behind it
A paved mountain road disappearing into thick cloud
A hand holding out a set of car keys

Tell us your flight and we’ll handle the rest

Send us your arrival time and we’ll tell you which transfer suits the people you’re traveling with — and what it does to the first day.

Worth timing: December through April is when this route fills, and flights get booked long before anyone thinks about the driving. If those are your dates, this conversation is worth having now rather than after the tickets stop being refundable.

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